South Africa Part 2 of 4: Swaziland

So yeah, technically this post isn't about South Africa, but about its small neighbour nestled in between the South African provinces of Mpumalanga and KwaZulu-Natal in the northeast corner of South Africa. After our safari in Kruger National Park, we had planned to travel with the whole Ferrari safari crew to stay few days with these friends in their home who currently live in KwaZulu-Natal. Plotting this out on the map, we realised Swaziland was right in the middle of our route, giving us a perfect opportunity to see another African country. So we detoured with a three-night stopover in the beautiful Kingdom of Swaziland.

Crossing the border from South Africa into Swaziland was interesting. We had to disembark our vehicle and walk through South African immigration to exit South Africa, and then walk across the border to Swazi immigration to enter Swaziland. The whole experience was something of a time traveling experience. These immigration facilities were largely very outdated. Chunky computers, yellowed wall hangings, tattered furniture and old fans swirling away. Most crossing the border were doing so on foot, including women with babies strapped to their backs, which is amazing to me as it was a rather remote location. Our mini-bus picked us up on the other side, and off we went.

As we carried on, deeper into Swaziland, I was completely struck by the overwhelming beauty and variety of the landscape.  I had barely enough space to manoeuvre my camera equipment through the tiny window opening in our mini-bus to capture anything of what we were passing through.   

 

Lush green valleys, to the smoking scars of the logged hillsides.

Reminded me so much of the Great Smokey Mountains in the southeastern United States.

Our first full day in Swaziland we started off with a tour of the capital of Swaziland, Mbabane.  Befitting of the country itself, it's not a large city.  Apart from our guide and driver we didn't get to see many people on our first day driving into Swaziland.  Today we had the great fortune of seeing and interacting with some of the people of this beautiful land.  

As we carried on I was struck by two things.  First is the level of poverty.  I've seen it in other places, but it so so all-encompassing here, so much more the norm and not the exception that it was difficult to shake.  It puts a face on worldwide poverty statistics you hear on news reports and read about in articles.  To hear about it and read about it is to know about it, but for me seeing it is to feel it.  The second thing that struck me was that for the first time in my life I was a minority, an extreme minority.  We were literally the only white people in the entire place.  The only other time we saw white people is when our tour collided with other tours at a couple of the tourist attractions we visited.  Otherwise there were literally zero white people anywhere to be found.   

Meeting and chatting with some of the locals in the Mbabane market here was probably the highlight of our time in Swaziland for me.  Our lives are so vastly different, but it just takes a few moments of talking to realise we are also all the same.  I was really overcome by their kindness and courteous manner.  Such hard-working, lovely people struggling to provide the basics of life for themselves and their families, all with smiles on their faces.  And unlike many other experiences with people in similar stations in other places, these people had a real genuine gracious air about them that endeared them to you instantly.  The level of poverty in this country is startling, only to be surpassed by the warmth and gladness of heart.  I never felt as if they were after anything from me.  Just offering kindness for kindness's sake.  I was eager to talk with some of the lovely ladies in the market, and was glad to offer them small compensation for their letting me photograph them.  I am so enriched by the encounters I had with these people so poor in material wealth, but so rich in spirit.  

The traditional medicine market that seems to have frozen centuries' old practises in time offering a whole range of interesting specimen that reminded me of something out of Harry Potter.  Fascinating!  

Sibebe Rock, solid granite mountain rock

The Ngwenya Mine, considered to be the world's oldest mine, most recently mining iron.  It is located on gorgeous Bomvu Ridge.

Exploring the mine landscape

Overlooking the Swazi/South African border crossing from the mine heights

Our resident miner!

The Ngwenya Glass Factory, a true health and safety nightmare, but doing so much good giving much needed employment and creating beautiful glassware out of completely recycled glass. 

I have never been super fond of the contrived traditional outdoor museums that seem to be attractions in most places.  I get the aim of these places, but I'd still rather go hang out with real locals to get an authentic view of a place, rather than spending my time visiting a museum set up.  We did learn a lot about traditional Swazi culture and enjoyed a vibrant dance and music display.

The kids enjoyed learning the Swazi dances

This guy was my favourite.  He lives in a tiny one-room house with dirt floors no bigger than my family bathroom.  He shares this space with a pile of worn out instruments and meagre art supplies.  He offers art and music lessons to village kids.  Such an inspiration . . . and sparkling smile.  

He sells these pretty little paintings to tourists, and I was thrilled to buy one for him, supporting his livelihood and having a permanent reminder of his spirit hanging in my home.  

The Swaziland Easter festival gathers Africans from all over.  We saw people walking roadsides and piling into trucks flocking to this big event.  It seemed to a be a conglomeration of religious celebrations mixed with musical artists.  The display we saw included dramatic musical and religious performances.  

This guy had a particular following.  A religious artist in quite a display of costume and fanfare.  Our guide said he was a Swazi celebrity.  You could buy his CD's.  I couldn't tell if he was trying to be a pop star or a religious leader, probably a little of both.  To be honest it felt a bit disingenuous to me and didn't see much talent from his act, and I wondered why people were flocking to see him.  It was interesting nonetheless to see this piece of the culture.  

At one point he came over to us and shook our hands.  It did make me a bit uncomfortable that we were the only he personally greeted in the crowd (us, the foreigners, who knew not who he was).

The people watching in this village was captivating.  Again we were the only whites, and we were a spectacle in our own right.  I should have had someone take a photo of me, but I was especially a sight with two large cameras in my possession.  I looked very official and often people would approach me asking if I would take their photo, which was like a dream for me!  The answer was always, yes!  

The boy, so full of hope.  He followed me around the village and finally got the courage to ask for his photo to be taken.  

Roads lining the festival route were littered with pop-up flea markets.  

Trevon meets a group of kids his age in Swaziland.

Produce market

Barber shop

Housewares

Our hotel was admittedly an oasis from the chaos and grime surrounding us.  My first world self appreciated the comforts of this refuge, but I also felt a bit of uneasiness about it when thinking of what lay beyond the hotel gates.  But it wouldn't be an accurate portrayal of our experience to leave this part out.  We enjoyed our time as family and friends, sharing, laughing and playing here.