Fashionably Dead

Who knew death could be so fashionable? Weddings, yes. Anniversary and birthday parties, yes. Baptisms and bar Mitzvahs, yes. But funerals?



Highgate Cemetery opened in 1839, shortly after Queen Victoria's accession to the throne. In the early part of the 19th century London faced a burial crisis with a booming population. To tackle this problem Parliament passed an act that saw the creation of several new London cemeteries, one of which was Highgate Cemetery. Highgate's elevated position in north London attracted a rather posh clientele becoming one of London's most fashionable cemeteries.












Funerals had become yet another reflection of England's class system. Wealthy families used one entrance to the cemetery, while poorer families used another.


As in real estate the choice of burial chamber was a statement of wealth. In the very heart of the grounds a most trendy structure was erected, an avenue of vaults. It was created in the Egyptian style which was in vogue during the period following the discovery of the Valley of the Kings. Today many of the vaults remain empty because the Egyptian style avenue faded out of fashion.


The avenue leads into the swanky Circle of Lebanon. This circle was created by excavating earth around an ancient Cedar of Lebanon. Each of the Cirlce's catacombs boasts its own style and wealth depending on the expensive materials and designs used.




Amidst all the show of style and social status here, I like this simple reminder that regardless of wealth or position we all end up in the same place!


The cemetery boasts many famous residents. Here lies Karl Marx.


George Elliot


Douglas Adams, author of The Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy

Dover

Earlier this month we spent a lovely weekend in Dover. We went primarily to celebrate with a good friend on her 40th birthday. The party was smashing fun, and Trevon was particularly keen to get his groove on! The boy has rhythm! Other weekend highlights include a visit to Dover Castle, hiking the White Cliffs of Dover, and perhaps most noteworthy becoming a five toilet family!


Dover Castle dates from the 12th century and has served many purposes through the centuries


Madeleine really enjoyed playing tour guide!












Dallin loved exploring the many passageways in the castle










A series of underground tunnels were built during the Napoleonic Wars to accommodate additional barracks and storerooms. They were later used to combat smuggling and then remained vacant for a hundred years until World War II. During the War the tunnels became a chief command center for the Royal Army as well as an underground hospital. Touring the tunnels feels like stepping back in time 70 years.










We spent a few hours hiking the White Cliffs of Dover. From the ground below you don't fully appreciate their grandeur. It isn't until you are stepping along the clifftop footpaths that you fully grasp their magnificent beauty and posture.










There is a reason why you are warned to stay several meters away from the cliff's edge. It is a sheer drop to the waters below!


Determined to get the shot (on the left), I stepped a mere 10 inches from the edge. I truly scared myself taking this shot, and in the moment after felt a surge of fear pulse through my veins. What was I thinking!?




At its narrowest point the Straight of Dover divides France and England by a mere 4 miles. Before the low-lying clouds moved in we could see the coast of France from these cliffs.




The kissing gate




The weekend's piece de resistance! In the two days leading up to our weekend in Dover, we had made serious progress in potty training T-man. We were determined to keep the momentum in this diaper-free direction even whilst traveling. To that end we brought the little training toilet with us. It's a little crazy potty training on the go, but with our travel pace lately, we didn't leave ourselves much choice. It was pretty hysterical carrying the training toilet in and out of the hotel, but considering Trev only had one accident the entire weekend I think it was worth the price of feeling a little ridiculous.

Auschwitz-Birkenau

A concentration camp? This really hardly begins to describe Auschwitz. In truth it was a factory of death. Its sole purpose was quite simply murder. You either died upon arrival in the gas chambers or you died in some other horrific manner in camp, most within the first year, but in one way or another death was unquestionably imminent. Death was the goal. This place is a Death Camp! And perhaps it's even best described as a Concentration of Death Camp as roughly 1.3 million were murdered here.

It is difficult to understand this place, Auschwitz. Wandering the halls and chambers of the various camp blocks, I cannot fight the despair that begins to flood my soul. How could such a place exist? Passing room after room where unimaginable acts of horrific cruelty took place one's faith can truly be shaken to the core. I am numb. Staring deep into the eyes of each prisoner photograph, I am startled by the fear that still flows from those eyes. Looking behind the glass onto mountains of human hair, I am sick. Seeing the hundreds of suitcases labelled with family names, I grieve for lives lacerated by this barbarity. Looking over the heap of children's shoes, I am heartbroken . . . and I am enraged. I am no longer numb. And at this moment I see clearly why we visit this place. For "those who forget the past are condemned to repeat it."

How did this happen?

The Nazis believed that the German nation was superior to all others. To that end those who did not meet their definition of racial purity would be eliminated. The Jews were the primary victims, but this racial cleansing extended to many other groups. By eliminating these so-called impure races, this left the space and resources needed to support the pure "Aryan" race. In a speech given just days before the outbreak of World War II Hitler coldly declared "I have given orders and ordered the shooting of anyone who utters even a single word criticising the fact that the goal of the war is not reaching some set line, but the physical destruction of the enemy. To this goal, only in the East for the moment, I have prepared my Death's Head units ordering them to kill . . . men, women and children of Polish origin or who speak Polish, without mercy. Only in this way will we acquire the living space that we need. Poland will be depopulated and settled by Germans."

This kind of ruthless, mass extermination is something out of a sci-fi horror film. The alien nation descends onto an unsuspecting planet and like soulless savages they ruthlessly kill its inhabitants to perpetuate its own selfish insanity. This kind of alien monster knows no reason, and must simply be defeated and thus our visit to Normandy last autumn brings this all full circle. The lives given to defeat this monster were surely not in vain, and I am evermore grateful for their courage in ridding the world of this savage beast.


There is such irony in this banner that hangs above the entrance to the main camp at Auschwitz I: "Work makes you free." In truth labour was one of the methods employed to break down and eventually kill prisoners. It is among the many examples of deceit used by the Nazi cowards. Code words were used to conceal the truth about those killed. Even Zyclon-B, the fatal gas used, was given a harmless, vague name on the delivery books. A fictitious cause of death would be entered on death certificates of those who died of special brutality.


When certain defeat of the nazis became imminent they began to conceal the evidence by destroying documents as well as barracks, crematoriums and gas chambers as seen here in Birkenau. Gratefully they failed, and Auschwitz stands as a witness and a strong warning to the world.

Many efforts were made to expose Nazi Death Camp crimes during the occupation. Internal resistance groups within the camp struggled to find a way to document and disclose to the world the truth. Most escape attempts were met with failure, but in many of the successful cases the escapees delivered the truth of Auschwitz to their government, which was still sometimes met with incredulous reception. Other prisoners made careful, secret records of crimes at Auschwitz and had them hidden on the camp grounds in hopes that one day they would be discovered.

And they were.


Today visiting the camp is a sobering experience. Guided tours are compulsory to the visit, and it is unlike any other tour experience. Tour groups are led by thoughtful guides who speak in hushed tones.


Using closed circuit headsets, tour guides are able to quietly and reverently lead groups through this hallowed ground. Auschwitz is really three separate camps known as Auschwitz I, II and III. Auschwitz II is also known as Birkenau and is about three kilometres from Auschwitz I. The tour takes you through Auschwitz I and Auschwitz II.


Jovial groups are quieted by the mood of reverence as you are led into the camp.


The following were all taken in Auschwitz I, which contains many buildings or "blocks." Photography is not permitted anywhere indoors.

















The double electric fence surrounded the entire camp. Many prisoners attempted suicide by throwing themselves against its wires.




Halt Stoj! "Don't Move!"






Block 10 is where Professor Carl Clauberg carried out criminal medical experiments aimed at developing a method for sterilising women.


The Death Wall


The Death Wall, where thousands of patriots unwilling to betray their fatherland were taken to be shot.


To the left is the side of Block 10. The wood panels were intended to prevent the women undergoing medical experiments from observing the shootings at the Death Wall.


"Caution: High tension, mortal danger"








Crematorium chimney


Guardhouse to protect the SS guard during roll call in inclement weather. Roll call would sometimes last hours. If one in your group had escaped or attempted escape, another would be killed as punishment during roll call.


Thousands of prisoners marched through this gate every day to work nearby. Exhausted upon return in the evening, they'd often be carrying back the body of a fellow prisoner who died working.


The "Gate of Death," or the main SS guardhouse at Birkenau.


For optimum efficiency these tracks were built to carry prisoners directly onto the sorting platform, for 60-70% this was just steps away from immediate death at the gas chambers.


Prisoner car






The sight of these tracks was surprisingly one of the most haunting elements of the camp.








Rows upon endless rows of destroyed barracks


Prisoners had to endure living conditions unfit for animals. Exposed to the elements through thin, gaping wooden roofs, prisoners would often awake covered in snow. Overflowing latrines meant treading through faeces and urine. Lice and scabies were rampant.





At the end of Birkenau stands a simple monument, which is surrounded by plaques all declaring the same message in several languages. "Forever let this place be a cry of despair and a warning to humanity where the Nazis murdered about one and a half million men, women and children, mainly Jews, from various countries of Europe."