Bulgaria

Mother's Day + cheap airfare + four-day bank holiday weekend + cheap new destination = perfect gift. That's pretty much what I want for any gift. I'd rather have the gift of travel than just about any other tangible item. I had actually put Bulgaria on my list about 14 years ago when I saw this magnificent monastery in the Bulgarian mountains portrayed on a travel video. I knew I had to see it. One day.



I must admit when I told local people where we were going for the Queen's Jubilee four-day weekend (sorry, Your Majesty, travel trumps royalism), my reply wasn't exactly met with much enthusiasm. More like "why?" It may surprise many that Bulgaria really is a fantastic destination. With an interesting history that includes layers of Roman, Ottoman and Russian influence, mountains perfect for skiing or hiking and a thriving seaside industry on the Black Sea, Bulgaria is a hidden gem.


First lunch




Much like our experience in Jordan, our weekend in Bulgaria was truly made special by our host, the owner of the apartment we rented. He was so gracious in showing us his country and went out of his way to make sure we had a good experience in Bulgaria. It's these experiences with local people that make travel truly special.


First tour through Sofia, we learn so much about this mixed culture that's a little bit Ottoman Empire and a little bit Russian.






Parliament


Sofia's main event, the beautiful Aleksander Nevski Church. It's actually rather new, built in the late 1800's in a neo-Byzantine style.




















Browsing the market stalls in central Sofia
















Interesting to run into this fun event in the city centre being sponsored by the America for Bulgaria Foundation




The guards at the office of the president. I was surprised at how small the building was and how accessible it was. This is definitely not the White House!


Changing of the guard, a rather intimate display




I loved these little buggy ramps on the metro steps. Brillant! I would have loved this here in London during my buggy phase.


















Day two, and our two-hour ride up to Rila . . .


Reading in the car


Cockpit


Drawing in the car








The magnificent Rila Monastery!






Monastic Facebook


















Very MC Escher








Bulgarian doughnuts! Yum!






















On the road from Rila


Our host stopped to let us see this antique warehouse turned local museum. The collection here was astounding. It was fascinating to see so many cool objects from bygone eras, but to see the eastern European versions of these things was even more interesting. Hollywood producers would have a field day here, a pretty killer prop house! Here a bust of Stalin sits in an old, tiny, one-person BMW.






















Antique typewriters in Cyrillic


















On the way to Blagoevgrad


Blagoevgrad is home to two major universities, including the American University in Bulgaria. The centre of town has a chunky, communist architectural feel, while across the river old town Varosha has old style houses. Not normally a fan of the blocky architecture found in the centre, it's open and airy, and I like it. Main thoroughfares are lined with shops, cafes and benches, and I could envision a very enjoyable student life here.




















How a 12 year-old rides a carousel meant for toddlers


Crossing the river into old town








Love all the fresh mountain water fountains all over










The road back to Sofia




The giant communications tower that punctuates the mountain backdrop of Sofia




Even through the haze, and amazing vista over Sofia






Our wonderful host took us to this most amazing spot in the mountains close to Sofia. This rock river is literally a river of rocks flowing down the mountainside. It almost looks like the hand of God tossed a bunch of pebbles down the mountain. I have never seen anything like it, and after the Rila Monastery, this place is a must see on any visit to Sofia.


















To western Europeans Bulgaria comes cheap. Our fabulous, spacious accommodations sleeping five cost only £38 a night. This pizza meal, including a risotto starter and drinks for 5 cost us only £14 including tip. A bargain!


A little playground break on our last day wandering Sofia


















All tuckered out and ready to call it a day!


Our view from our rental apartment on our last night in Sofia.