J-Jour

It's hard to imagine this beach ravaged with war.


Outpacing the sun by a good hour we arrived to a dark, quiet Ouistreham, Normandy off an overnight ferry from England.


In the pitch-black, pre-dawn hours we managed to safely navigate our way to this beautiful beach. Sword Beach to be exact.


It's one of the five beaches used by the allied forces invasion on Normandy on that fateful morning, June 6, 1944. As the sun inched up over the horizon I couldn't help but feel a lump in my throat pondering the fate of the thousands of brave young soldiers who marched up onto this beach at the break of dawn those 65 years ago. Because of their courage, skill and determination the beach is peaceful again.


And when the darkness lifted under the light of the rising sun we all but forgot about this beach's former savage history.
















The Memorial Museum at Caen is the perfect place to begin your tour of the D-Day beaches.


The museum itself is thoughtfully presented and gives a good overview of the invasion. Incredibly this museum offers childcare in a cheery, well-equipped playroom so parents can enjoy the exhibit unencumbered by little ones whose eyes are not yet mature enough for such weighty material. Outside you can take a moment to reflect in gratitude for those who sacrificed their lives to restore peace in the memorial gardens and waterfalls.






Our tour of Normandy was not entirely dominated by invasion sights. There is plenty of small-town French charm and delicious French food throughout the region. Our breakfast each morning . . .




On the wall as you enter the American Cemetery "Nous n'oublions pas, nous n'oublierons jamais, la dette d'infinie gratitude que nous avons contractee envers ceux qui ont tout donne pour notre liberation" Rene Coty, President de la Republique Francaise

If one forgets, the rows upon endless rows of gravesites here will serve as a formidable reminder. "You can manufacture weapons and you can purchase ammunition, but you can't buy valor and you can't pull heroes off an assembly line."















"From the heart of our land flows the blood of our youth given to you in the name of freedom."

Appropriately the American Cemetery overlooks Omaha Beach, the "embattled" shore, where the horrific carnage of June 6, 1944 took place.

Hallowed.

Sacred.










"On ne voit plus que des Americans dans les rues de la ville, il n'y a plus un seul Allemand. C'est une joie indescriptible."

Pushing west we reach the supreme challenge. Pointe du Hoc. Here specially trained rangers ascended this vertical cliff to attack and seize a heavily fortified German position. While only a third of the rangers survived the attack, their mission was successful and ultimately aided in the safe landing of American forces.










Bayeux is decidedly enjoyable. The first city to be liberated after the D-Day landings, Bayeux was spared the wrath of WWII. We stopped to see the world-famous tapestry depicting a battle of another era, to take a peek at the awe-inspiring cathedral and to enjoy a delicious autumn French meal.








Arromanches is ground zero for D-Day. Its makeshift harbor, named Port Winston after Churchill who birthed the idea, provided a foothold in Normandy allowing the allied forces to begin their victorious push to Berlin.










Utah Beach. The other main beach used by US troops to push into France.




Sainte Mere Eglise. The village where many paratroopers landed off-target. Many snagged on trees and even buildings making easy targets for the Germans. Those who did manage to survive played a key role securing bridges and roads behind enemy lines.

Private John Steele recreated

Stained glass on the church windows honoring the paratroopers


We debated a visit to the German Cemetery, but ultimately decided our D-Day tour needed to include this stop. It is a stark contrast to the resting place of the allied soldiers, whose graves are marked with gleaming white stones that elicit respect and honour. Here dark crosses in groups of five memorialize the German dead with only simple identifying name plates. We see more German license plates in the car park, and I feel as though I might be trespassing.

The German man looking for a loved-one . . .



I don't feel hate here. In truth, I expected I might. I don't feel love, but I feel grief for loss of life on both sides. And I feel that to ignore these losses would be a mistake.


After all that we have seen these last few days in Normandy, I can't help but get a chill up my spine reading this letter from President Eisenhower one the eve of D-Day:

SUPREME HEADQUARTERS ALLIED EXPEDITIONARY FORCE

Soldiers, Sailors and Airmen of the Allied Expeditionary Force!

You are about to embark upon the Great Crusade, toward which we have striven these many months. The eyes of the world are upon you. The hopes and prayers of liberty-loving people everywhere march with you. In company with our brave Allies and brothers-in-arms on other Fronts, you will bring about the destruction of the German war machine, the elimination of Nazi tyranny over the oppressed peoples of Europe, and security for ourselves in a free world.

Your task will not be an easy one. Your enemy is well trained, well equipped and battle-hardened. He will fight savagely.

But this is the year 1944! Much has happened since the Nazi triumphs of 1940-41. The United Nations have inflicted upon the Germans great defeats, in open battle, man-to-man. Our air offensive has seriously reduced their strength in the air and their capacity to wage war on the ground. Our Home Fronts have given us an overwhelming superiority in weapons and munitions of war, and placed at our disposal great reserves of trained fighting men. The tide has turned! The free men of the world are marching together to Victory!

I have full confidence in your courage, devotion to duty and skill in battle. We will accept nothing less than full Victory!

Good Luck! And let us all beseech the blessing of Almighty God upon this great and noble undertaking.

Dwight D. Eisenhower