Say it isn't so

If you were lucky enough to know these girls they'd immediately become some of your best girls. Just ask anyone who knows them. This mom is likely to win best mom of the universe someday. She's also a contender for the most awesome friend a girl could have. Older sister has an undeniable charisma that makes you want to be her best friend even if there is a 30-year gap. She'll take you shopping and show you all the good places to eat. And little sister charms you with her stunning eyes, perfectly delicious chubby cheeks and the unquestionable look of her loving father. This shoot was a girl thing, but dad is the ever-doting father who is seriously devoted to his girls.

It goes without saying that we are going to miss you terribly! And because I haven't quite come to terms with the inevitable, all I can say is say it isn't so!

Turkey

After four days in Istanbul we took a one-hour flight down to Izmir on Turkey's Aegean Coast where we rented a car to spend four days exploring the ruins of this land. Driving in Turkey was a joy. Although at first it was slightly confusing as we had finally adjusted our American brains to driving on the left side of the road, only to find ourselves needing to drive on the right side of the road again here. Why the industrial world couldn't collaborate on this and keep everyone on the same side of the road is beyond me!



Our primary target in this region was the fabled city of Ephesus, of Paul's-letter-to-the-Ephesians fame. This ancient trading city has a colorful past that includes a continuous game of goddess musical chairs and ever-changing control of power from one nation to another. Each group left its mark and despite the mass of cruise ship passengers shuffling through, echoes of Ephesus' grand past can still be heard.


Curetes Way


Library of Celsus


Library of Celsus


Library of Celsus


Finding bugs amoung the sarcaphogi


Library of Celsus


Library of Celsus


Curetes Way

Perhaps even more enjoyable than Ephesus, was visiting the lesser visited and more peaceful ancient cities of Priene, Miletus and Didyma. Here aside from the occasional fellow vistor we had these cities to ourselves. We enjoyed the serenity of these relatively untouched locations.


On the steps to Priene


Priene


Priene


Priene Theatre


The seats of honor, Priene Theatre


Temple of Athena, Priene


In the column graveyard, Temple of Athena, Priene


How a two year-old measures up to a column diameter, Priene


Our everloving naturalist spots a Turkish turtle hiding in the column graveyard, Priene


Temple of Athena, Priene


Temple of Athena, Priene


Priene


A mosque in every town


Didyma, The Temple of Apollo


Didyma, The Temple of Apollo


Dallin helping Madeleine navigate the ruins, Didyma


Didyma, The Temple of Apollo


Didyma, The Temple of Apollo


Didyma


Miletus, Great Theatre


Miletus


Miletus, Great Theatre


The Aegean

Istanbul

A city that straddles two continents. A city with more name changes that can confuse the most astute historian. A city containing architectural masterpieces of epic proportion. A city with a magnificent past and a bright future. A city that productively and peacefully blends the ancient and modern. A city with colorful, hectic corners filled with striking sights and overwhelming aromas. A city so hospitable, I have never felt so welcome.

This is Istanbul.



When our travels to Turkey come up in conversation, the most frequent question is "did you feel safe?" Yes, Turkey shares borders with Iran, Iraq and Syria, but I never felt anything but safe during our eight days in Turkey. In fact I never felt anything but the warmest welcome, even as we walked around with our New-York-hoodie-clad nine-year old in tow. Our stay was like an extended Halloween minus the costumes. Perfect strangers out of sheer love and adoration for the young, were unceasingly filling little hands with sweets and little hearts with smiles. By the second or third sugary gesture I let my fearful, skeptical American guard down and let the children enjoy the kind treats pouring out of these loving hands. We felt like welcomed guests in a land we shared nearly nothing in common. By the end of our Turkey travels I began to wonder just how true this was. Religious beliefs, customs and gastronomy are largely different from our own, but the loving way in which they treat others is something universal. In fact we were so overwhelmed by this show of kindness throughout, that I'm certain the world could learn something here.

We were constantly reminded that we were guests in a Muslim nation. The loud call-to-prayer emanating from the nearby Blue Mosque, and mosques dotting the land over, was a constant, unavoidable reminder. I must confess the call has a very eerie, mysterious quality to it, at least to my western ears. Five times daily the pious respond to the call as they gather in mosques or stop where they may, and turn to Mecca while the modern world swirls around them. I'm convinced that Muslims are like any other faith, and should not be feared, but respected. I was thus, disappointed by the general lack of respect shown inside the Blue Mosque. Unlike the Aya Sofya, which is now technically a museum, the Blue Mosque is a fully operational mosque that graciously and generously welcomes non-Muslims inside its doors.


The Aya Sofya competes with the Blue Mosque as the top Istanbul sight, but in age, size and historical signifigance the Aya Sofya takes the top prize


The sheer enormity of this structure cannot be overstated; Paris' Notre Dame would easily fit inside here


Remnants of both the Christian Byzantine church and the Muslim Mosque abound here providing a unique glance at history




The Muslim mihrab fitted into the former Christian structure, intentionally off-centre to face Mecca


The Muslim mimber below, juxtaposed with the Justinian mosaic above






Blue Mosque from the upper gallery of the Aya Sofya


This is what happens when you ask someone else to take your photo!


Aya Sofya at night




Yes people live here!


Turkish tea time


Tour de Turk






Blue Mosque


Blue Mosque


Blue Mosque


Blue Mosque


Blue Mosque, photo credit: Dallin Ashton


Our princess


Our prince


Blue Mosque, photo credit: timer


Blue Mosque Night


Grand Bazaar, belly dancing anyone?


Grand Bazaar, Turkish tea sets


Grand Bazaar, hand-hammered copper


Grand Bazaar, lantern stall


Topkapi Palace, home to centuries of sultans


Topkapi Palace


A fine specimen I spotted across the courtyard at the Topkapi palace


Topkapi Palace


Topkapi Palace


Silk scarf shop we stumbled upon and came away with a silken treasure




Silk worm


Spice Market


Spice Market, hmmmmm?


Spice Market


Street Vendor


Part two of our Turkey travels, the Aegean coast, to follow . . .